The first thing you have to know is how to create the most flattering shape for your eyes. According to Mellinger, the fold of your eye is what determines that. “Those with a hooded eye may need a thicker wing in order to see the line when the eye is open,” For those with a heavy fold, you may need to create a sort of “bat wing” shape in order for the liner to look complete with an open eye. If your eyes are particularly small, you really only want to apply the liner on the outer half of the eye, maybe just the outer third. This will make the eye appear more open.
DeRoest agrees, saying smaller eyes can benefit from only applying eyeliner to the top lash line. Large eyes can benefit from liner on top and bottom lash lines. “If your eyes are narrow, you will only want to add liner to the outer half and extend the line to create more length on the outer edges,” she explains. “If you have almond eyes, most eyeliner shapes, and looks will be complimentary.”
No matter which style of liner is most flattering for your eye shape, feel free to mix it up. After all, it’s just makeup, and makeup should feel fun and expressive. “At the end of the day, I think liner shapes and looks are more about personal style and preference as well—not one shape or look is ‘wrong,” DeRoest says. “It’s more about what makes you feel confident. I like to play with makeup looks before I shower in the morning, that way I can discover new shapes or effects, and if I don’t like it, luckily, I am showering immediately. If I do like it, I can recreate it for my makeup look that day.”